View Full Version : F'd up flue
Swampfox
10-18-2007, 04:31 PM
http://img143.imageshack.us/img143/8339/img0022qz8.jpg
http://img143.imageshack.us/img143/4728/img0023ga2.jpg
I dont have much experience with gas, but I know these arent right, especially the way some pieces fit over the piece above it rather than inside of it, if that makes any sense
any advice on how a lowly heat pump hack might address this?
Spotts
10-18-2007, 04:43 PM
More tape.
Spotts
10-18-2007, 04:48 PM
OK, really, I would run a 4" flexible flue liner down that 6" pipe, and hook it up. http://www.stainlessventingandchimneyliners.com/images/chimney_liner_gas.jpg
ralphtheplumber
10-18-2007, 04:56 PM
More tape.
You guys are killing me.
You need b-vent.. probably a lot of it.
Nice job with the zip ties, too.
Stephy
10-18-2007, 05:02 PM
The older I get the more anal I am.
The zip tie thing......DRIVES ME CRAZY...............
I'ts the little things............:loltard:
Stephen
GA-HVAC-Tech
10-18-2007, 05:03 PM
Hi Swampy,
Code over here in GA (and national I thinK) says all flue is B-vent from the furnace to the termination.
What you will need is a few 'B' elbows and perhaps a reducer (and maybe a 12" and/or a 12" adjustable B vent section). Important thing is to not try to push up or pull down the main 'stack' that comes down from the ceiling/roof. Disturbing this sometimes can cause a roof leak later... and we do not want to have to fix that later... :shocked:
Up here in Atlanta, most heating is N/Gas furnace. I buy my B-vent parts (adapters, elbows, etc) by the case for a better price.
southern girl
10-18-2007, 05:16 PM
Damn that is some ****ed up looking shit!!!
ralphtheplumber
10-18-2007, 05:18 PM
Just think.. there are at least 13 more there probably installed by the same guy.
Lots going wrong there swamp as if you didn't know.
You know what you need to make sure it is safe. ;)
DPSwitch
10-18-2007, 05:44 PM
I wish I could react in horror, but Ive seen a bunch like that.
Swampfox
10-18-2007, 05:47 PM
Just think.. there are at least 13 more there probably installed by the same guy.
Luckily the rest are rooftops, the gas lines are just as bad though
Lots going wrong there swamp as if you didn't know.
You know what you need to make sure it is safe. ;)
Yeah, I turned the gas valves off :D
(((XM)))
10-18-2007, 05:50 PM
Hi Swampy,
Code over here in GA (and national I thinK) says all flue is B-vent from the furnace to the termination.
What you will need is a few 'B' elbows and perhaps a reducer (and maybe a 12" and/or a 12" adjustable B vent section). Important thing is to not try to push up or pull down the main 'stack' that comes down from the ceiling/roof. Disturbing this sometimes can cause a roof leak later... and we do not want to have to fix that later... :shocked:
Up here in Atlanta, most heating is N/Gas furnace. I buy my B-vent parts (adapters, elbows, etc) by the case for a better price.
You sure about that? I think it is B at the roof line, combustible and up.
GA-HVAC-Tech
10-18-2007, 06:32 PM
Hi Swampy,
Code over here in GA (and national I thinK) says all flue is B-vent from the furnace to the termination.
What you will need is a few 'B' elbows and perhaps a reducer (and maybe a 12" and/or a 12" adjustable B vent section). Important thing is to not try to push up or pull down the main 'stack' that comes down from the ceiling/roof. Disturbing this sometimes can cause a roof leak later... and we do not want to have to fix that later... :shocked:
Up here in Atlanta, most heating is N/Gas furnace. I buy my B-vent parts (adapters, elbows, etc) by the case for a better price.
You sure about that? I think it is B at the roof line, combustible and up.
Yeah, I believe so. At least most houses I see are B from the furnace area through the roof with a B cap on top, and roof flashing with a collar at the roof. I do know that we are required to run B from the furnace, effective a few years ago.
When there is a water heater 'Y' ed to the furnace on one stack, I usually add in about $125-150 to the bid and replace the B to the water heater also. Sales point is that it is all done and the HO does not have to concern themselves about it for a LONG time.
Heading out to Thursday evening group (Bible Study group). Catch up later.
When there is a water heater 'Y' ed to the furnace on one stack, I usually add in about $125-150 to the bid and replace the B to the water heater also. Sales point is that it is all done and the HO does not have to concern themselves about it for a LONG time.
If a natural draft water heater is common vented with an induced draft furnace it needs to be corrected as this is a time bomb waiting to go off if the conditions are right.
Yes it is allowed by code but so are a lot of other things that make no sense. ;)
refrigerationtech
10-18-2007, 07:47 PM
ok swamp get a sawsall cut everything off then turn off gas lock it out and then tell the customer what the F****. that sure dont pass here and would be tagged. first i dont think its right in size. 2. too much tape on the dam piping seems thats all is holding it up. like said if it shares the same as a hot water is a no no. best thing is to look up( furnace btus and then look at the tables for how high the flue goes and choose the proper size. b vent i think is the key here with a b to c at the begining to connect to the furnace. OH properly supported and aligned. too big the thing going to condensate and ya just going to have to replace it in the future and to small ya wount vent. good luck that sure looks like a mess. talking about condensating geeezzzz got to fix my hot water lol.
Andy G
10-18-2007, 09:55 PM
Geez. Sometimes "creative" is not a good thing. That's really f'd up lol
NZ All Blacks Fan
10-19-2007, 12:38 AM
It may not be necessary to change much to meet code.
according to my code book canadian - and really it generally has the same specs as you yanks
6 inch B vent should be fine for your application - no need to change it tell me the btus to be sure
al lI would do is re do the vent connector ( al lthat foiltaped shait)
so start with a 4" to 6" b vent expander then throw some 4" bvent elbows to snake it over to the vent off the furnace - 1 4 "b to c connector and a 4 inch 26 gauge elbow to finish it off - call your local gas inspector for direction - then at least you only have to fix it once - if your not sure
Swampfox
10-19-2007, 08:13 AM
gas inspector??? never heard of such a thing :lachen:
Thanks for the advice guys, I dont think thats 4" off the furnace though, looked like 3" to me
should have gotten the model, I think its a 120K York
muskie
10-19-2007, 03:01 PM
More tape.
Agreed as long as it's labeled 181-p, other than that it looks good!:)
NZ All Blacks Fan
10-19-2007, 05:20 PM
if its 120k then its just within code for a 6 inch b vent - no horozontal run all vertical
it should have been 4 or 5 inch
6 inch just squeeks in on the min for a power vent
Andy G
10-19-2007, 11:12 PM
6 inches is 1.03 meters right? At the current exchange rate?
frozensolid
10-20-2007, 10:15 AM
Are you telling us or your old lady. :)
Andy G
10-20-2007, 12:32 PM
LOL frozen
aircooled
10-20-2007, 01:43 PM
I went on on the other day with (2) Rheem horizontal gas furnaces, 70, 100 and they both had 3" pipe with 4" elb over the 3" hole up to a 5" to roof. I have a bid in to replace flue on small unit. Then replace downstairs with Infinity system which will have 4" and then all I will need is 5"/4" reducer in B-vent. I am waiting for him to call. This is father-in-law of one of my new maintenace customers I meet while I was at his home he wanted me to come over to his house the nexted day. Got maint. for 4 systems on one house and 2 systems on the other.$$$ And Infinity system.:thumb:
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